Cowichan Sweaters of the Coast Salish People

Traditional Knitted Wool Garments From the B.C. Cowichan Valley

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Cowichan Wool Sweater - Photo: Jenny George
Cowichan Wool Sweater - Photo: Jenny George
Cowichan sweaters are made of pure wool, offering warmth and durability coupled with distinctive Native American designs.

Authentic Cowichan sweaters are known the world over--and with good reason. Cowichan knitting is an art form that combines skill and traditional designs.

The wool sweaters had their genesis with the West Coast Salish people. The inhabitants of the Cowichan Valley on southern Vancouver Island in British Columbia were introduced to knitting by the European settlers. Around the 1850s, sheep (likely brought in by the settlers) were introduced to the area.

Salish women put the wool to good use and went on to create hand-spun sweaters that withstood coastal elements such as rain and snow. The sweaters, made as they were from real wool, were waterproof.

In the early years, fleece from Dorset, Hampshire and Suffolk sheep was used. After sheering, the wool was washed, then left to hang outdoors so that rain and wind would clean it and the sun would bleach it. The wool was carded then spun into strands used for making the traditional sweaters.

Modern Cowichan sweaters are still made from undyed virgin wool, in natural hues of black, brown, grey and white. Care is taken so that the wool retains its natural oils (lanolin) which give the knitted sweaters their water-resistant quality.

The thick wool sweaters are distinctive-looking: animals, birds and attractive geometric designs are woven in thick stranded natural wool. The talented southern Coast Salish women have been turning out beautiful knitted sweaters for almost a century and the craft is flourishing in modern times.

Knitted Cowichan Wool Sweaters

  • Each sweater contains 4.5 pounds of wool
  • A sweater takes a couple of weeks to complete
  • Traditional sweaters are knitted "in the round," which means they are almost seamless (sweaters with fewer seams are more durable)
  • A wool sweater, cared for properly, has a life span of approximately 80 years
  • Symbols on Cowichan sweaters represent clans of the Coast Salish people and/or reflect wildlife seen in the area
  • Sweater designs have been passed down through families; other motifs have been borrowed from basketry and weaving designs.
  • Cowichan knitted sweaters are considered ethnic art forms

Authentic Cowichan wool sweaters, made by Khowutzun Native knitters, are in great demand--so revered, in fact, that they have been presented as gifts to royalty and visitors to the Province and collected by many as Canadian souvenirs.

Modern-day Cowichan bands provide websites where traditional sweaters can be purchased. The "wear-ever" knitted sweaters are a lifetime investment and continue to attract a wide following of devotees. Consumers can select First Nations symbols or other designs when choosing custom-made knitted sweaters.

The Coast Salish knitters have combined artistry and skill to create distinctive and durable Cowichan wool sweaters--garments that have benefited their own communities and the greater human family around the globe.

Author's note: genuine Cowichan sweaters are hand numbered. Check the label for a registration number indicating a genuine "Cowichan Indian Knit."

Further Reading

Ethnic Knitting Styles

The Ancient Art of Naalbinding

M. Rhodes, Image: Selena Rhodes

Melody Rhodes - M. Rhodes is author of the Bedbug Books. She's been published in Canada, U.S. U.K. & NZ and has won awards for her poetry/prose.

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